So this past week was a whirlwind. I am coming down from the orientation that was organized for us. We did so very much within just a few days. Locally the landscape is superbly beautiful. I think that is the thing that I have been in awe of the most. Every few moments in the mountains here the weather and sky changes. It is so very bountiful, a kind of Eden for growth. Everywhere you walk you see fruit trees. People stroll here in Lanjaron. The time has stopped because there is always tomorrow. Nothing is pressing and it's delightful. The women are all VERY intense, and VERY confident speaking to each other with urgency. They seem a little mad in their delivery. I have yet to see a single woman here, both young and old that would be described as meek. I love it. It's great for the young women in the group to see. They don't apologize, walk straight ahead and look you directly in the eye, even when they know you have no idea what they are saying. The ONLY thing done quickly here is speaking Spanish.
Meals are taken two hours at a time. One eats a small breakfast, a LARGE usually three course meal at about 2pm and tapas or a snack for dinner around 9pm. Bed at midnight or so. I have been avoiding dinner otherwise I'll have to be rolled off of the plane when I arrive home.
We have seen the best of Lanjaron so far but for a village of 4500 it's easy to stroll and discover more each moment with open eyes. We've stumbled across markets and little inlets often. The Moorish castle ruins were breathtaking with a view of both the sea and the Sierra Nevadas. I think I'll walk there three times a week at least. We had a wonderfully informed and tasty tour of the Honey Museum, witnessing a working 600 year old wax melting/straining station. We tasted the curative perscription only waters at the Lanjaron Balnareo, wearing our nicest "I'm not disgusted, no really" faces when sipping water that tasted strongly of blood, all the way to a potent "you might get diarrhea" fresh from the spring variety. We were told that we may indeed get diarrhea. People from all over the country come to this wonderful village for rest and to take these waters.
We socialized, getting to know each other, testing the waters. I like the students very much as they are bright and seem to be curious by nature. It's odd being on the clock 24/7 though. Nothing vacation about this experience. It's a bit exhausting but luckily I happen to really like people. Many ask question after question, even at breakfast. Having private time is difficult in the hotel but I don't think I can get lonely, which was my biggest worry. I enjoy coffee with them in the evenings and it's a wonderful adventure trying our Spanish on locals while sipping the most DELICIOUS cafe con leche I've ever had. I am already a fiend since it only costs a single Euro most places. The most gorgeous, almost Tuscan looking hotel right around the corner from ours made us a fabulous lunch and taught us the entire process. We overlooked the mountains in a semi-outdoor space while making a wine/lemon drink called "limonada" and a rice based soup with chorizo. We had our first taste of Serrano ham and a lovely cheese while we all sipped our beverages. So tasty, the perfect balance of pillowy lightness dissolving in your mouth with a salty intense meaty flavor. It helped that we were all floating from the limonada since it went down a bit to easily. Let's just say laughter abounded, or cackles on my end.
We went to Granada this past Sunday and it was something else. A glorious cityscape of a brand of Moorish inspired Art Nouveau architecture, and EVERYWHERE. We visited a small cloister church of the most opulent Baroque interior I've ever seen. The paintings were underwhelming, very macabre and martyr focused but the haven in the center garden was just so delightful to behold. I pet two dogs (which by the way ALL the dogs are mix breeds here) which made me very homesick for my own. Next we visited the Capilla Real, or Royal Chapel a small (not really) church devoted to the mausoleum of the Catholic Kind Ferninand and Isabella. I was in charge of the tour on that one, which I was asked to do very late but came prepared, a little too prepared because I was rushed rushed rushed by the intermediary assistant Alphonso. We had sadly about 25 minutes to witness the church and Isabella's art collection. The crypts were masterworks, executed in entire blocks of Carrera marble and gloriously carved in all the best of Baroque splendor. Her collection of paintings included several Memlings-which were something else. We walked around the bend to the Granada Cathedral which immediately dwarfed everyone, reminding you of the Global force that once was Spain. A FANTASTIC cathedral, bigger than any I've ever seen. Highlights in that was the impact of the architecture and the Riberas. Nothing is labeled so it's a little hard to identify the artists. We then walked to the top of the city to witness the sunset. It took us 50 minutes or so to trek up a mountain, our thighs and buns burning the whole way. Let's just say I'm glad I've been exercising. While sitting taking in the view we admired a terrible Gypsy painter openly smoking some seriously pungent pot. I don't remember what happened next. ;)
We then hiked it down hill for another 40 minutes to a Tapas bar where we sipped wine and water and sampled some squid, chorizo and jamon y queso. Then back on the bus, winding all the way back atop night canvased mountains. Classes started yesterday and I taught my first lesson. They seemed to really have enjoyed it but are intimidated at my expectation of actual art making. They are so very engaged so it's incredibly refreshing to have them in my life for the next three months.
I feel very much like an alien here. More thoughts on that later. I look forward to painting this week in my room and taking a day trip back into Granada this weekend. The bus should be an adventure!
